Harry's Peloponnese Guide: Ancient Mantineia

One of the cities that medieval Tripolitza (modern Tripoli) replaced was Mantineia (still the name of the eparchy in which Tripoli is located), which was situated 15km/9.3 miles north of Tripoli.

Relatively intact 4th century BC walls are one of the attractions of this ancient town, along with some remains of the theater.

The area was once covered by oak forest, and was called 'Pelagos' (open sea) because an oracle had warned the Greek Epaminondas to beware of the sea, but the battle in which he died happened here instead.

The 'marella' cherries used in 'vyssinada' (a sour cherry soft drink) are grown in the plain below Mantineia.

This town was one of the most important Arcadian city-states and rival of Tegea, with its history dominated by tensions with it, most likely over the issue of water supply. The town existed during the Geometric and Classical periods, and during the Peloponnesian War the Mantineians were allies of Athens, the Tegeans allies of Sparta. After the Peace of Nikias in 421BC, Mantineia joined Athens, Argos and Elis in the quadruple alliance that led to the First Battle of the Mantineia (418BC), described by Thucydides.

The head of the Lakedaimonian (Spartan) army destroyed the town in 385 BC, but the populace returned to their city with the help of Thebes and built the fortifications that have lasted till present times. They altered the course of the Ophis river so that it was not a threat to them, (the Lakedaimonian leader having used its dammed up waters to help him destroy the city). A native of Mantineia, Lykomedes, founded the Arcadian League in 370BC, but six years later the Maniteans seceded from it and allied themselves with the Spartans, and were defeated along with them by the Thebans in the Second Battle of Mantineia in 362BC.

This battle marked the fourth and last Theban invasion of the Morea. During the following century, the Mantineians joned the Achaean League and enjoyed victory against Kleomenes, but Mantineia was later captured by Antigonos Doson during a revolt by the city against Macedonian dominance of the League. There was yet another Batlle of Mantineia in 208 BC in which the Acheaeans defeated the Lakedaimonians.

The walls, built during the 4th centuryBC,may have been built by the same Theban architects that built contemporary Messene. The circuit is elliptical and amost complete to this day, with a perimeter of amost 4km. Encircled by the diverted Ophis river, they were constructed of large square of polygonal blocks, with four courses still standing. The wall was 4meters/13.12feet thick and there were over 120 square towers placed about 26meters apart, with ten gates. Inside the walls are remains of the theater (dating from Roman times), the Agora (marketplace) and Council House. In 1979, a cemetery dating from late Classical to Roman times) was excavated at Milia, to the west. The site of Mantineia is open Tues-Sun, *:30am-3pm;free). Visitors to the site will notice a nearby rather bizarre modern church built in a mad combination of period styles: Minoan-Classical-Egyptian-Byzantine-- said to be dedicated to 'The Virgin, the Muses, and Beethoven'. Its creator was a Greek-American architect, whose fanciful creation was erected during the 1970s.

The Mantineia area is replete with grapevines. A local white grape variety known as 'Moskhofiliro'is grown here, which resembles the Muscat (as does its name). From it is produced some very good white wine in both dry and sparkling varieties. The Tselepos family has revived these wines (and the grapes) during the last three decades, with new model wineries with wine tasting shops on the same road as the site. Before the site is also a late 19th century winery built by Greek wine-making pioneer Alexandhros Kambas, which may or may not be open to the public.