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Folegandros (Pholegandros) in the Cyclades Island Group

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The Basics

Quick Facts: Folegandros
Pronunciation foe-leg-an-dross
Alternate Spelling Pholegandros
Transportation Ferry
Main Attractions Sheer cliffs, terraced fields, striking Hora, local pottery
Food Excellent eateries
Accommodations Beds may be in short supply during high season

Folegandros Characteristics

folegandrros pholegandros cycladesfolegandrros pholegandros cycladesFolegandros lies between Milos and Sikinos, 105 nautical miles from Piraeus. Its land mass is 32 sq. km. and its coastline is 40 km. The ferries on the way to Folegandros stop first at nearby Sikinos, which is a greener spot but has few amenities for travelers.

Folegandros is a wonderful island of sheer cliffs and spectacular views. Its population is 650. It is one of the nicest of the Greek Islands and not overwhelmed by tourism, except during July and August.

folegandrros pholegandros cycladesfolegandrros pholegandros cycladesViews from the main town of Hora are wonderful. Many call Folegadros' Hora the most captivating island capitol in the Cyclades (and that's saying something).

This island is popular with those who want to see a real Greek Island. Boats dock at the eastern port of Karavostassis with its own pebble beach, tavernas and rooms to let. There's a newly repaved road leading up to Hora, or Folegandros Town, the capital.

Island Features

folegandrros pholegandros cycladesfolegandrros pholegandros cycladesMountainous and rocky, Folegandros is, in fact, a Phoeniciann word meaning rocky.

The island has several nice beaches. In the South, sandy Livadi Beach is a short walk from the port. The island's best beach, Katergo Beach can be reached from Livadi by walking across the hills. It's on the island bus route as well. There's a picturesque islet in the bay at Katergo, and a long sandy strip of beach.

folegandrros pholegandros cycladesfolegrandrosfolegandrros pholegandros cyclades

Halfway between Hora and Ano Meria lies sandy Angali Beach with several taverns, a campground and shady pine trees. The beach is at the bottom of a steep path with donkeys availble to carry one down for a fee. Nearby the 2 nudists beaches of Aghios Nikolaos and Fira are also within walking distance but easier to reach by water-taxi from Karavostassi Port. There is swimming right in Karavostassi, also.

The beaches on the north coast are accessible only by boat.

Towns

folegandrros pholegandros cycladesfolegandrros pholegandros cycladesHigh on the sheer cliffs sits Folegandros Town, or Hora. It perches some 900 feet above sea level. It is home to 600 inhabitants and the Cycladic Center of Art.

Cars are only permitted on its outskirts and many of its stone houses face inland. There's a quaint old quarter around the Kastro or castle. The Castles outer walls, built in 1212 by Marco Sanudo, incorporate an external row of houses. Two entrances remain of the castle itself and within, a labyrinthine maze of cobbled alleyways and white houses with wooden balconies bedecked with flowers and bouganvilleas. The 17th Century Church of Pantanassa and 2 smaller churches serve the needs of parishoners.

folegandrros pholegandros cycladesfolegandrros pholegandros cycladesThe more recent sections of town have dazzling white houses, narrow streets, and many courtyards. The town revolves around its four linked squares or Plateas. The first of which is tree lined and containing most of its tavernas, is the center of nightly activity.

The second is much quieter. The third has cafes and is popular with the locals.

The fourth square holds the Post Office while the others have stores, cafes, tavernas and open spaces. Shops in Hora sell the local flowered pottery with its decorative handles.

Near the Hora is Chryssolilia, the golden cave. It is approachable by water taxi and has stalagmites and stalactities. It was a refuge in times past. The large grotto containing the golden cave was used in antiquity for ancient cult rituals. It posseses some ancient tombs and Classical-era inscriptions.

Buses depart from the far side of town to Ano Mera (5km) surrounded by terraced fields, as well as to other village and beaches around the island.

Around the Island

The Monastery of Evangelistria may be reached from the town of Livadi by mule path. It sites at the islands southern shore. In the north, Aghios Georgos Bay below the town of Ano Meria has a nice beach as well as the nearby beaches of Ampeli and Livadaki accessable by foot after alighting at the bus stops above. Ano Meria also has the Ecology and Folk Museum (open daily: 5-8, Tel: 41387). There are fabulous sunsets at Ano Meria, and on a clear day you can see all the way to Crete. Ano Meria is actually a string of farming hamlets surrounded by terraced fields.

To the NE of Hora lies Paliokastro and the ruins of castle fortifications and the ancient city.

Built upon the site of The Ancient Temple of Artemis is the Church of the Panagia with its blessed icon.

Drinking and Dining

There are many good places to eat. O Kritikos is recommended for local specialties. Try The Folegandros for a huge selection of dishes and Pounta for nouvelle cuisine in its lovely outdoor area. There's also a busy nightlight in the Hora area for party-seekers.

Accommodations

See our greece hotels for a complete look at accommodations available on this island.

History

This rocky isle was traditionally a place of exile. The Aegean's various rulers mostly passed it by as of little interest, although there were plenty of pirates attacking the island. Frequent pillaging explains why the houses in the Hora have their backs to the sea and are built around protected courtyards in twisting streets.

Hints from Harry

Since Folegandros is a small place, reservations should be made well in advance for the high season. It is very popular with the Italians and Danes.

It's a great island for walkers–lots of wild beauty and unspoiled beaches. Hikers will enjoy its rugged terrain but should wear boots to avoid thorns. See more pictures of Folegandros. | Folegandros Photos II

Maps

folegandrros pholegandros cyclades

folegandrros pholegandros cyclades

The Complete Details

Helpful Information
Transportation Facts
  • Several times a week ferries from Piraeus stop in Folegandros
  • Mondays the 'Express Apollon' stops at the island enroute to Paros, Ios, Naxos and Santorini.
  • There are less frequent links with Sikinos, Kimolos, Milos, Sifnos, Serifos, and Naxos.
  • On the island there is bus service and water taxi service
Island Resources
  • Post Code 84011
  • Tel. code: 2286
  • Folegandros Port Authority: Tel. 41249

 

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